Water at Home and Play

Jacob Maroga who is the CEO of Eskom believes that switching off a geyser in the afternoon saves electricity and has started a debate with two sides, one agreeing with Jacob Maroga and the other disagreeing.

In my view Jacob Maroga is wrong. Here’s why.

When a geyser is switched off the water in the geyser starts to cool due to heat losses from the sides of the geyser … these losses are reduced to some extent by a well insulated geyser but nevertheless heat (ie energy) is lost. The amount of heat loss is easily calculated since it is based upon the weight of water in the geyser multiplied by the temperature drop.

When the geyser is switched back on the water is then reheated back to the original temperature. The amount of energy required to achieve this is more or less equal to that lost during cooling. Therefore no energy (electricity) is saved.

What is an advantage of shutting off a geyser is that it reduces the electrical load at a specific point in time. If the shutting down of millions of geysers could be coincided with the daily peak demand across all uses of electricity then no overloading of the power generation capacity would be experienced at peak times. However no energy consumption would be saved for that day.

The only way to save electricity costs at the geyser is to reduce the thermostat setting AND at the same time by using less water than normal through the geyser.

For example if you take a hot bath using 400 litres of water at 38 degrees C you can achieve this in two ways:

If geyser is set at say 60 degrees then a certain amount of cold water will have to be mixed to get to 400 litres at 38 degrees. The amount of cold water entering the geyser to replace the hot water is then heated to 60 degrees.

If the geyser temperature is dropped to 55 degrees then less cold water will be need to be mixed in the bath with the hot water at 55 degrees to reach 400 litres of bathwater at 38 degrees … this means MORE water must come out of the geyser and then be replaced with cold water even though the thermostat has been reduced. In turn this extra amount of cold water entering the geyser has to be reheated to 55 degrees.

In summary if you want to save money at the geyser use less hot water and improve the insulation of the geyser. Messing around with the thermostat will not really help. Neither will switching off the geyser for short periods. Of course shutting the geyser down while away on holiday does save energy.

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power generation capacity, uses of electricity, electricity costs, geyser, energy consumption, electrical load, eskom, temperature peak demand, hot bath, geysers, peak times, heat loss, bathwater, thermostat,

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On Sun, Mar 30, 2008 at 1:36 AM, Jarad gregston  wrote:
Hi there, my name is Jarad and I’ve been entertaining the idea of building a pond on my land. I live in the north west central part of ohio in the country and have some land that I could fit a decent size pond on. I love to fish especially fly fish.

I’m interested in whether or not I could put any species of trout in a pond, how the pond should be built to accommodate the trout, and what, if any, other types of fish I would be able to put in the pond with the trout. I read through your website some and just wanted to see if you had any suggestions. thanks for your help. Jarad

You can read more about this topic on my website where I have created an article to answer just such a question about trout in a garden pond.

Keeping Trout in Ponds is Different: Over the years I’ve often been asked about keeping fish other than koi and goldfish in garden ponds and especially trout. Of course it is possible to keep trout in an artificial environment.

Requirements for keeping fish like roach, perch, kurper (South African bream type of fish), bass, sunfish, rudd are not too different than for keeping any type of carp (this includes koi and goldfish). However trout are different and I will explain what’s required to have a successful trout pond on a step by step basis. Continued …
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keeping fish, garden ponds, trout pond, garden pond, trout,

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Overflowing pond filters is not an unusual situation and is generally the result of a restriction in the outlet pipe. I got this email recently which shows what can happen. By the way it is always a good idea to place a filter on a slope so that if the worst does happen at least the water flows back into the pond.

Dear Pond Professor,
My large Oasis Vortex pond filter has suddenly started overflowing and nearly emptying the pond. It happened quite suddenly one day so I refilled the pond (not knowing that the filter had overflowed) and all was ok for some days/weeks. Then one day my wife noticed that the pond level had dropped alarmingly within about a 2 hour period since she last looked. So this time I guessed that somehow the water was being pumped out via the filter. I turned off the pump, fully cleaned the filter, brushes and foam (lots of mud) and put it all back together (due to a serious illness I had not cleaned the filter for 3 years). I started the pump and as soon as the filter was full it started overflowing, even though water was returning via the return pipe to the pond, but probably at a reduced rate than I remember. I suppose something is blocking the outlet from the filter or there is something in the return pipe (buried underground for about 5 metres).
Any helpful ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, James

James, hi

Either you re pumping more water than normally into the filter or as you say there is a restriction in the outlet pipe. If the former is the case install a valve in the inlet or reduce the flow some other way (eg clamping the pipe if flexible or by opening the recirculating valve which possibly comes with your pump (submerged and close to body of pump).
If you can somehow get a drain plunger onto the outlet pipe this also can help, or some sort of compressed air (even blowing hard might be enough if you can access the pipe… it is probably accumulated algae that is restricting the pipe.
Another option is to use a long piece of wire with a hook on it and work this up and down the length of the 5 metre pipe..

Tony

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drain, Overflows, Filters, algae, Overflowing, pump, pipe, pond, water, filter,

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Water is a very scarce resource in South Africa because of generally low annual rainfalls, few large rivers, large offtakes for industry and a warm climate. Many dams have been built to cushion the effects of drought years and at times the levels in these dams have been perilously low.
As I write this we are in the wonderful position that many of the country’s dams are full, close to full or even overflowing.
There is a very interesting website which shows the updated water levels and flow for all the dams in the country.
The website shows a map of the provinces of South Africa and if you click the relevant province a list of dams is provided along with the relevant information. The site also has a map showing the exact location of each dam in the country.

In the table below I have shown an extract from the website which shows the following… column 1 is the geographical region in which the dam is situated, column 2 is the name of the dam and column 3 is the river on which the dam is situated.
Region Dam Name River
A Albasini Dam Luvuvhu River
A Bon Accord Dam Apies River
A Bospoort Dam Hex River
A Buffelspoort Dam Sterkstroom
A Doorndraai Dam Sterk River
A Glen Alpine Dam Mogalakwena River
A Hartbeespoort Dam Krokodil River
A Klein Maricopoort Da Klein Marico River
A Klipvoor Dam Pienaars River
A Kosterrivier Dam Koster River
A Kromellenboog Dam Klein Marico River
A Lindleyspoort Dam Elands River
A Luphephe Dam Luphephe River
A Marico-Bosveld Dam Groot-Marico River
A Mokolo Dam Mokolo River
A Molatedi Dam Groot-Marico River
A Mutshedzi Dam Mutshedzi River
A Ngotwane Dam Ngotwane River
A Nwanedzi Dam Nwanedzi River
A Nzhelele Dam Nzhelele River
A Olifantsnek Dam Hex River
A Rietvlei Dam Hennops River
A Roodekopjes Dam Krokodil River
A Roodeplaat Dam Pienaars River
A Sehujwane Dam Sehujane River
A Swartruggens Dam Elands River
A Vaalkop Dam Elands River
A Vondo Dam Mutshindudi River
A Warmbad Dam Buffels Spruit
B Blyderivierpoort Dam Blyde River
B Bronkhorstspruit Dam Bronkhorstspruit
B Buffelskloof Dam Waterval River
B Dap Naude Dam Broederstroom
B Ebenezer Dam Groot-Letaba River
B Flag Boshielo Dam Olifants River
B Hans Merensky Dam Ramadiepa River
B Klaserie Dam Klaserie River
B Loskop Dam Olifants River
B Magoebaskloof Dam Politsi River
B Middelburg Dam Little Olifants Riv.
B Middel-Letaba Dam Middel-Letaba River
B Nsami Dam Nsama River
B Ohrigstad Dam Ohrigstad River
B Rhenosterkop Dam Elands River
B Rust De Winter Dam Elands River
B Tonteldoos Dam Tonteldoos River
B Tours Dam Ngwabitsi River
B Tzaneen Dam Groot-Letaba River
B Vergelegen Dam Politsi Tributary
B Vlugkraal Dam Vlugkraal River
B Witbank Dam Olifants River
C Allemanskraal Dam Sand River
C Bloemhof Dam Vaal River
C Boskop Dam Mooi River
C Douglas Storage Weir Vaal River
C Elandskuil Dam Swartleegte River
C Erfenis Dam Groot-Vet River
C Grootdraai Dam Vaal River
C Groothoek Dam Kgabanyane River
C Kalkfontein Dam Riet River
C Klerkskraal Dam Mooi River
C Klipdrift Dam Loop Spruit
C Koppies Dam Renoster River
C Krugersdrift Dam Modder River
C Potchefstroom Dam Mooi River
C Rietspruit Dam Rietspruit
C Rustfontein Dam Modder River
C Saulspoort Dam Liebenbergvlei
C Spitskop Dam Harts River
C Sterkfontein Dam Nuwejaar Spruit
C Vaal Dam Vaal River
C Vaalharts Storage We Vaal River
D Armenia Dam Leeu River
D Boegoeberg Dam Orange River
D Disaneng Dam Molopo River
D Egmont Dam Witspruit
D Gariep Dam Orange River
D Katse Dam Malibamatso River
D Knellpoort Dam Rietspruit
D Mohale Dam Senqunyane River
D Setumo Dam Molopo River
D Vanderkloof Dam Orange River
D Welbedacht Dam Caledon River
E Bulshoek Dam Olifants River
E Clanwilliam Dam Olifants River
E Karee Dam Karee River
G Dam Name River
G Berg river dam
G Eikenhof Dam Palmiet River
G Misverstand Dam Berg River
G Steenbras Dam-Lower Steenbras River
G Steenbras Dam-Upper Steenbras River
G Voelvlei Dam Voelvlei
G Wemmershoek Dam Wemmers River
H Brandvlei Dam Brandvlei Dam
H Buffeljags Dam Buffeljags River
H Duiwenhoks Dam Duiwenhoks River
H Elandskloof Dam Elands River
H Keerom Dam Nuy River
H Klipberg Dam Konings River
H Korentepoort Dam Korinte River
H Kwaggaskloof Dam Kwaggaskloof Dam
H Lakenvallei Dam Sanddrifskloof River
H Pietersfontein Dam Pietersfontein River
H Poortjieskloof Dam Groot River
H Roode Els Berg Dam Sanddrifskloof River
H Stettynskloof Dam Holsloot River
H Theewaterskloof Dam Riviersonderend
J Calitzdorp Dam Nels River
J Floriskraal Dam Buffels River
J Gamka Dam Gamka River
J Gamkapoort Dam Gamka River
J Kammanassie Dam Kammanassie River
J Leeugamka Dam Leeu River
J Miertjieskraal Dam Brand River
J Oukloof Dam Cordiers River
J Prinsrivier Dam Prins River
J Stompdrift Dam Olifants River
K Ernest Robertson Dam Groot Brak River
K Garden Route Dam Swart River
K Hartebeestkuil Dam Hartenbos River
K Impofu Dam Krom River
K Kromrivier Dam Krom River
K Wolwedans Dam Groot Brak River
L Beervlei Dam Groot River
L Haarlem Dam Groot River
L Kouga Dam Kouga River
L Loerie Dam Loerie Spruit
M Groendal Dam Swartkops River
N Darlington Dam Sondags River
N Nqweba Sondags River
Q De Mistkraal Dam Little Fish River
Q Grassridge Dam Groot Brak River
Q Katrivier Dam Kat River
Q Kommandodrift Dam Tarka River
R Binfield Dam Tyume River
R Bridle Drift Dam Buffalo River
R Laing Dam Buffalo River
R Nahoon Dam Nahoon River
R Rooikrantz Dam Buffalo River
R Sandile Dam Keiskamma River
S Doornrivier Dam Doorn River
S Gcuwa Dam Gcuwa River
S Gubu Dam Gubu River
S Lubisi Dam Indwe River
S Ncora Dam Tsomo River
S Oxkraal Dam Oskraal River
S Waterdown Dam Klipplaat River
S Wriggleswade Dam Kubisi River
S Xilinxa Dam Xilinxa River
S Xonxa Dam White Kei River
T Umtata Dam Mtata River
U Albert Falls Dam Mgeni River
U Hazelmere Dam Mdloti River
U Inanda Dam Mgeni River
U Midmar Dam Mgeni River
U Nagle Dam Mgeni River
V Craigie Burn Dam Mnyamvubu River
V Driel Barrage Tugela River
V Mearns Dam Mooi River
V Ntshingwayo Dam Ngagane River
V Spioenkop Dam Tugela River
V Wagendrift Dam Boesmans River
V Woodstock Dam Tugela River
V Zaaihoek Dam Slang River
W Goedertrouw Dam Mhlatuze River
W Heyshope Dam Assegaai River
W Hluhluwe Dam Hluhluwe River
W Jericho Dam Mpama River
W Klipfontein Dam Wit Mfolozi River
W Morgenstond Dam Ngwempisi River
W Pongolapoort Dam Phongolo River
W Westoe Dam Usutu River
X Da Gama Dam White Waters River
X Driekoppies Dam Lomati River
X Inyaka Dam Marite River
X Kwena Dam Krokodil River
X Maguga Dam Komati River
X Nooitgedacht Dam Komati River
X Vygeboom Dam Komati River
X Witklip Dam Sand River

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Yesterday I did something I’ve been meaning to do for a long time and just couldn’t get around to it.
I took every single fly out of their disorganised boxes and separated the dry flies from all others … over time the nymphs had become mixed with dry flies and wet flies had got mixed with nymphs, the mayflies were in the hopper box and so it went.
Having done the separation (and having bought yet another fly box) I put the nymphs neatly arranged into their own box and the wet flies went in another. But the important work I did was to take every single dry fly and dunk it into a powerful liquid floatant substance.
The flies were allowed to dry over a 36 hour period before placing them back into their own private fly box. This treatment will improve the floatation of the dry flies very significantly
I also used the dunk on my range of yarn bite indicators … they took longer to dry and are now ready for whatever the waves and currents throw at them. Of course I combed the yarn indicators to give them a really roughed up look which means they will float even better and be able to be seen at quite a distance.

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I get some interesting emails and here’s one of them…
Tony, first of all, Thank You for your emails. I enjoy reading them, having dug a pond in October, planted sticks (plants with no foliage!) and can now see the first green , red and pink shoots appearing.
I have question for you. I am using a bio-filter, with scotchbrite as a filter medium. It all seems to be working , I have added micro thingies to kick start it.
I read that perhaps I should put a UV light in the circuit, prior to the filter. While my underwater lights show a green haze, not bad, but visible, if I check the water from the filter outfall, it is almost crystal clear.
An analogy would be a pint of water with 1/2 teaspoon of lime cordial in it. Do I still need a UV lamp?
With your permission, may I pin some of your articles on the staff notice board for general viewing?

Roger, Midhurst, UK

Roger, Hello and first thanks for the email

You only need an UV light if your pond is murky (brown or green) caused by suspended algae … the only thing that an UV does is to kill suspended algae. You cannot see murky water at the waterfall outlet … since you can see the light it is certainly not critical that you install an UV.
However it would make a difference to water clarity. You will probably find that the murkiness gets worse when the water warms up. If you decide to install an UVC then switch it off during winter to conserve the lamp efficiency.
The UV lamp needs changing every 8000 hrs or so of continuous use.
You may pin any of the articles on your board.
Roger’s reply…
Tony you are a Gem!
It really takes the pressure off me and I will fit the UV at my leisure. The problem is that the more you do, the more you need to do to stay ahead.
The nights are just a bit longer in the UK at the moment, cold, but it is so relaxing to sit in the garden and look at the pond. The plants are starting to shoot, and the fish are moving around. I fish for freshwater fish most of the year and I am sorely tempted to teach my grandson, age 10 mths to fish in my pond. I always have maggots in the fridge, and my fish have a taste for them. Here in the UK a Fishery Owner is BANNING maggots as a bait, saying that there is not enough protein in them. That means that we pay to catch his fish, put them back in, feed them and take nothing home. I thought lawyers were corrupt.
My wife is the driving force behind my wildlife garden, and she is overjoyed to have 3+ prs of frogs, who have laid 8+ balls of spawn.
Working on natural attrition I hope the pond can cope. Cannot thank you enough for such an interesting and useful email.
Roger

My last word …
I also come from the UK, Wigan in Lancashire, but I’ve been here in South Africa since 1972.
I also used to keep maggots and casters in the fridge … I was holidaying in Ireland one year and fishing at Carrick on Shannon. I kept the maggots in the bedroom of the hotel. One morning we all went down to breakfast and the table we sat at was swarming with maggots … they worked their way out of the containers and wriggled down cracks in the ceiling.
Now I flyfish … You can subscribe to my series of articles at Practical Water Gardens.

Tony
Technorati Tags:
maggots, wildlife, pond, algae, flyfishing, uv

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A new product specifically aimed at campers and hikers is called The SteriPen … it is a device that is able to purify contaminated water using UV (ultra violet) light. The action of the UV light is to destroy the membranes of bacterial contaminants in the water wherever the water is sourced from … be that a brook, stream or lake.

The Steripen has an integrated LCD screen which shows the user’s dose selection (1/2 liter or 1 liter of water), the status of the battery that runs the Steripen and a countdown timer to show how the process of sterilization is proceeding. The LCD screen also tracks the number of uses of the Steripen. This new purifier will be a real bonus for campers and hikers. The Steripen has a life expectancy equivalent to sterilizing 1 litre of water per day for 7 years. It takes about 48 seconds to purify 0.5 litres of water (16 oz.). It wreighs only 139g or 4.9 oz. Suggested Retail Price is $129.95 and is expected on the market in April 2008.
Technorati Tags:
water, uv, purifier, steripen

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When rain falls and before it comes into contact with any aerial pollution the water created from condensed vapour is pure. This water then falls upon the land and becomes contaminated with fertilisers and other materials.
The water then flows into rivers and streams or sinks through the soil to be stored underground.
However when water is evaporated the impurities are left behind (as though the water had been distilled) and the resulting water vapour starts the cycle all over again.
Technorati Tags:
water, evaporation, contamination, vapour

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Tony,
I am really learning a lot from your e-mails!!! What a great resource for information. Anybody interested in receiving emails can opt-in at my main website Practical Water Gardens
My husband and I are novice pond keepers. Last year we were getting ready to spend a fortune on a pond filter. Someone gave us an idea to save us some money.
We purchased a 100 gallon container and filled it 3/4 of the way with lava rock, running our line from the pump on the bottom. We added moss and water hyacinths on the top. We cut 2 holes in the top front of the container and used PVC pipe to let the water drain over a rock back into the pond to provide aeration. We surrounded the container on the outside with rock. It does a really great job!! Our pond was totally green and in just 3 days it was crystal clear!!!
I was wondering how often we needed to change the lava rock and if there was anything else we might need to do. If we don’t have a problem with algae, should we still get a UV filter? And, I read in your last e-mail that ponds shouldn’t have a flat surface on the bottom, which ours does. What can I do to remedy that situation? Are snails good or bad to have in your pond?
We live in Alabama and our 1500gal pond is in full sun. We have a variety of Koi and goldfish and several plants. We also have some unwelcome guests, like the water moccasin that likes to sun on our rocks. Do you have any advice on how to keep snakes away from your pond other that purchasing a mongoose to run loose in my backyard!?
We have a lot of pond books and each one tells us we need something different. It can get really confusing. So I thought I would e-mail you and ask for your advice.

Thank you,

Kim

My response:

Kim, I don’t fancy the idea of having a water mocassin in a pond. Unfortunately I don’t know how to keep snakes away … as far as your filter is concerned you have done a good job. It would do no harm to clean out as regulary as you can but if a big job clean say every 3 months. You might find it useful to put the lave rock inside shade netting or other open mesh plastic bags so that you can lift the rock out easily.
Only use pond water to rinse down the rocks and put the rocks back into the filter quickly … do not let them dry out. Do NOT feed the fish for a few days after doing the cleaning.
If your pond stays clear don’t install an UV but if it goes murky or green then it would be a good idea.
I’m not sure what you mean by flat surface … in general the bottom of a pond should not be covered with rocks or sand or soil.
Snails are good for a pond … the fish will eat the small ones.
Sounds like you’ve done a great job
If you do the things I suggest in my emails and book you don’t need to do anything else

Tony
Technorati Tags:
water moccasin, snake, clean pond, filter, uv, water

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I re-discovered my diary of 1992 the other day in which I recorded my fishing experiences in the UK on the River Wharfe and in the USA in Montana, Idaho and Wyoming.
The entries brought back great memories and show that I learned some great fly fishing techniques taught by able masters like Craig Fellin, Jim Stubbs and Brett Downey … in particular I was amazed at the quality of fly fishing on the Bighorn River in Montana where I was guided by Brett Downey. If you’re interested you can read some of these flyfishing diary entries here.
Technorati Tags:
flyfishing, montana, idaho, wyoming, diary, wharfe, bighorn, bighole

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